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|Battery Description||1 x 2CR5|
Canon EOS 100 35mm Camera body
Supplied in exelent working and cosmetic condition c/w Canon body cap & Instruction book
General Canon EOS Information
Canon EOS 100 is a 35 mm autofocus SLR camera introduced by Canon in 1991. It was marketed as the EOS Elan in North America. It was the second camera in the EOS range to be targeted at advanced amateur photographers, replacing the EOS 650.
Its headline features were near-silent film winding, input of EOS barcode programs, integral auto-zoom flash, twin input dials, an autofocus auxiliary light for low-contrast subjects, a maximum shutter speed of 1/4000s, and five fully automatic modes.
The look and feel of the EOS 100 had much in common with the T90 and EOS 650. It was based around a polycarbonate body with metal bayonet lens mount.
The top left of the body had a Command Dial for choice of either Creative or Image zones and buttons to control the integral flash. The top right of the body had a multi-function Main Dial, buttons for autofocus and film advance control, the shutter release button and an LCD display panel. The back of the body had the Quick Control Dial, used for aperture control, and the AE Lock Button, used to lock exposure settings.
Once the Command Dial had been set for a particular shooting style, all controls could be accessed with the right hand, with the viewfinder feeding back information to the photographer.
EOS 100 came with a motorised belt drive for film winding and rewinding. Canon claimed this made it the quietest camera in the EOS range.
The drive also enabled the camera to operate at three frames per second, faster than most of its competitors.
Using the Drive Button, the photographer could choose whether to allow single or multiple photographs to be taken as the shutter release button was held.
The drive could also be disabled to allow up to nine multiple exposures to be made.
All powered functions in the EOS 100 came from a single 6 volt lithium 2CR5.
EOS 100 had a single BASIS (Base Stored Image Sensor) chip, targeting the centre of the viewfinder. This was key to its two autofocussing (AF) modes: One-shot AF and AI Servo AF.
One-shot AF was used for stationary objects. Once in focus, exposure was calculated then the shutter was released. In low light or low contrast situations, the AF auxiliary light would momentarily project a series of red bands on the subject. This then enabled the AF circuits to have a subject with contrast they could focus onto.
AI Servo AF was used for moving objects. The lens would continuously refocus on the object in the centre of the viewfinder whilst the shutter release button was pressed half-way. Once the shutter release button was fully pressed, the exposure was calculated then the shutter released.
Depth of field preview could be enabled via a custom function. If enabled, the aperture would reduce to show the depth of field every time the AE Lock Button was pressed.
The Command Dial gave the photographer the choice of several shooting modes. The operation, and even the symbology used, would eventually be incorporated into Canon's digital camera range. Canon's fully automatic Programmed Image Control modes were Full Auto, Portrait, Landscape, Close-up and Sports.
Full Auto Portrait Landscape Close-up Sports
The manually adjustable shooting modes were Shutter-priority, Aperture-priority and Depth-of-field. In these modes, the exposure could be compensated by ±2 stops in 1/2-stop increments. Also, AEB (auto exposure bracketing) could be used to take three continuous exposures in sequence, again by ±2 stops in 1/2-stop increments.
All exposure control settings would be ignored when the Command Dial was set to manual. Then, both shutter speed and aperture could be set independently. The viewfinder would still give information on whether the camera thought the shot would be under- or over-exposed, but it wouldn't interfere.
Red-eye reduction was achieved via a bright light, not a series of pre-flashes
The EOS 100 had an integrated retractable TTL flash. Information via the EF lens mount was used to optimise the zoom setting of the flash. It had three zooms to cover the focal lengths of 28 mm, 50 mm and 80 mm. Consequently, its guide number for ISO 100 varied between 12 m at 28 mm, to 18 m at 80 mm.
The focal plane shutter gave an X-sync speed of 1/125 second. The flash would normally fire when the first curtain had finished its travel, but this could be changed to the second curtain via a custom function.
Red-eye reduction was achieved by producing a piercing continuous bright light to the left of the flash. This would shine while the flash capacitors were charged.
The flash shoe contained signals for X-sync, red-eye reduction and second curtain sync.
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Looking after your camera
Use a Camera Bag
A camera bag does more than just protect the camera against scratches and dust: It keeps it safe from rain because many are waterproof on the outside.
Be Very Careful Around the LCD Screen and Camera Lens
Use only special equipment to clean your camera’s LCD screen and camera lens. Buy a special cleaning kit that includes liquid solutions, microfiber cloths and brushes that have been specially designed to clean your camera lens.
Never Leave Your Batteries in Your Camera for Too Long
Many camera batteries are now alkaline or lithium formats. If you keep your camera with the batteries inside of it in a moist area, then the batteries can get corrosive. So if you’re thinking about just putting your camera on the shelf for several months, do yourself a favor and remove them.
Turn Your Camera Off Prior to Doing Anything
Before you do anything to your camera, always keep in mind that it should be turned off first. No matter what it is—swapping lenses, changing memory cards or disconnecting or attaching cables—your camera should be turned off.
Cold and Wet Weather Can Wreak Havoc on Your Camera Body
Take your camera out only in a waterproof bag. If the weather’s unusually cold, just wrap your camera in a plastic bag that has silica desiccant packets for the reduction of moisture. It’s also a smart idea to have a soft towel with you to wipe off any moisture, just in case it should get on your camera.
Good Memory Card Care Is Good Camera Care
Only transport your memory cards inside of a protective caseMake sure the memory cards stay dust-free at all times. When removing memory cards, make sure you do so indoors or in non-dusty situations.
Make sure that you keep memory cards only in cool places. Never keep them in places where they may heat up, like dashboards or glove compartments.
Never place your memory cards close to magnetic sources. Examples of magnetic sources are things such as audio speakers, TV monitors and actual magnets.
Use a Filter to Protect Your Camera Lens
The lens of your camera is naturally fragile. As such, it’s susceptible to scratches, cracks, dents…you name it. A UV filter will not only will you give your lens a fighting chance, but you’ll also enhance the quality of your pictures.
Condensation Can Be Controlled
Condensation normally happens when you move your camera between different temperatures.
Allow your camera a chance to naturally get used to the hotter environment. Don’t place it inside a closed plastic bag when transporting it between different temperatures! Just let the camera sit in the humid temperature for a while, until condensation disappears.
If this still doesn’t get rid of all of it, you can utilize a soft cloth to wipe away any remaining moisture and marks left behind from the condensation.